The plan was to go down to southwestern Iowa and ride the middle section of the Wabash Trace. It’s in the Rail-Trail Hall of Fame and it’s relatively close to home, so why not? The Trace would be my third RTHoF trail. The other two were Indiana’s Monon Trail and Cardinal Greenway. Ranking trails is subjective, but neither of those trails crack my top ten list so I’m not sure why I thought the Trace would be different. Don’t get me wrong. It was pleasant enough…just not worth the three hour drive. There are nicer trails much closer to home.
Fortunately, Omaha was right down the road. I love Omaha. Most people don’t give it a second thought, but it’s one of my favorite cities. Why? Mostly because of the rich tapestry of neighborhoods in a place you wouldn’t necessarily expect to find them. The economy is surprisingly vibrant here as well with headquarters for companies like Mutual of Omaha, Kiewit and Union Pacific scattered around. It’s not a college town but it feels like one. Jan said it reminded her of Austin back before Austin went corporate and turned into Boulder 2.0. I can see that. It reminds me of Seattle…in a good way. People are smart here. Pleasant, too.
This was my third time cycling in Nebraska’s largest city. My first visit was in December a few years back and it was bitter cold. I had fun, though. I also cycled here on a beautiful spring morning en route to Ogden Utah. Each time I’ve come I’ve discovered more infrastructure than the time before. Omaha may still have a ways to go, but the city and region have obviously embraced cycling in a big way.
I always park on the Iowa side of the river not far from the Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge. This is how my journey always begins. Bob the Bridge is the region’s signature piece of infrastructure and one of the best bicycle bridges anywhere. It connects Council Bluffs Iowa’s surprisingly robust trail network with downtown Omaha.
There were some big changes on the Iowa side of the river this time. What used to be an empty field is now a work zone with apartments springing up all over the place. The riverfront includes a park with a hall overlooking downtown Omaha. It’s surprisingly scenic, especially if all you know of Omaha is what you’ve seen from I-80 while zipping through on the way to Colorado. There’s bikeshare here. Through the middle of it all is a cycletrack that will extend into downtown Council Bluffs when completed. I’ve long felt that this waterfront was prime for development and when it’s done it will be easier and faster to get to jobs and entertainment in Omaha by bicycle than by car.
Of course, Bob the Bridge was the highlight of the visit as it always is. As I said previously, I think this is one of the best bicycle bridges in America…maybe the very best. It was built from the ground up especially for cyclists and pedestrians and to spur the development that is now taking place. The bridge is about 3,000 feet long and rises gently before swooping gracefully over the Missouri River. This is no small thing. Bob the Bridge is a centerpiece as opposed to an afterthought. There were lots of people out and about on a hot Saturday afternoon. Most were on foot but there were a few cyclists, too. It’s de rigueur to stop at the apex of the bridge for a photo op.
Once you roll off the bridge on the Omaha side, there are trails into the center of the downtown district. One choice is to head straight west towards TD Ameritrade Park, home of the College World Series. It’s probably the most beautiful ballpark in America that doesn’t have a permanent major league tenant. You’ll pass CenturyLink Center and Arena on the way. This is Omaha’s convention center. They’ve held the NCAA swimming and diving championships in the arena. They built a pool just for the event. There are numerous hotels, restaurants and watering holes here that are easily accessible via bicycle. Head west just a few blocks and you’re in the heart of the Creighton University campus There’s a trail and sidepath heading north that takes you almost all the way to the departure lounge of Eppley Airfield.
You can also head south along the river. Cycle through Lewis and Clark landing, pass under Interstate 480 and then follow a series of bridges through Heartland of America Park and on to the Gene Lahey Mall, a beautiful canal side park that extends into the very heart of downtown. It’s just over a mile from the bridge to the end of the trail here.
If you want to explore further afield, you’re going to have to ride on the street for awhile. Like most cities, Omaha is adding bike lanes all over the place. Many connect to other trails in different parts of the city. If you feel like exploring beyond downtown, check out the city’s interactive bicycle map here. The good news is that riding on the street here is relatively easy. I recommend heading into Midtown. That’s where we found Ponderosa Cyclery, a great local bike shop in the heart of a neighborhood strip with lots of used brick buildings and locally owned restaurants and shops. This is a surprisingly hilly city, though, so be forewarned.
If you want to stick to trails, I’d recommend crossing back over to the Iowa side of the Missouri where you’ll find a riverfront trail that extends both north and south of Bob the Bridge for several miles each direction. I didn’t ride it this time but I have on previous visits. If you head south, you’ll find yourself at Harrah’s Casino. There’s even a connection to the Wabash Trace, so we could have ridden all the way back to Shenandoah and on to Missouri if we wanted to. Maybe next time.
As the largest city in the state ranked dead last in terms of bicycle friendliness by the League of American Bicyclists, Omaha shouldn’t be this much fun but it is. That’s the thing about bicycle friendly rankings. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Omaha is proof positive of that. If you find yourself here, I definitely think it’s worth the time to get out and explore by bicycle.